This is an upgraded version of our standard Solo SyncLight Kit, with two extra SyncLights (you get four total SyncLights and one breakout board). These can be placed on the left+right of the Solo to give even more illumination to your Solo.
As with all SyncLights, you are free to mix and match different light patterns to create a unique combination which works best for you, however, we recommend the following modes to achieve a dead-simple setup:
1 SyncLight with the Master Strobe pattern, affixed to the front of Solo
1 SyncLight with the Follow Strobe pattern, affixed to the rear of Solo
2 SyncLights with the Offset Strobe pattern, affixed to the sides of Solo
Mounting screws for the breakout board are included. These screws should be hand-tight only (5 ft-lbs max). It is recommended to apply a small amount of medium strength threadlocker, such as Loctite 242, to the screw prior to installation.
The boards are designed to accept an input voltage anywhere between 10-42V (3S to 10S). While the input connector is a standard ‘servo’ style, it will not work on standard servo voltages. The pinout is the same: Black for ground, Red for 10-42V, and White for the signal bus. Take care not to plug the SyncLight into your system incorrectly: while there are protections built-in to mitigate most mis-wirings, the protections cannot prevent damage for reverse voltage, and the SyncLight will be permanently damaged.
Do not hot-plug one SyncLight into an already-powered SyncLight group. The voltage fluctuations caused may trigger a ‘pattern change’ event on the already-powered SyncLights, and lead to undesirable operation. Make sure the system is powered off before adding an additional SyncLight to the bus.
The LED is driven at 6-6.2V at 3A, so a nominal 18W draw is expected when the LED is on fully. When the LED is PWMed, the apparent current draw is reduced. A table is provided with amperage measurements taken at 16V (4S):
|LED Mode||Amperage@16.8V (One SyncLight)|
|Half-on, High||0.53A (When ‘On’)|
The board will get warm/hot to the touch if you use any mode other than “Master Strobe”, “Follow Strobe”, or “Offset Strobe” with no airflow, no heatsink, and no other form of cooling. The boards will not damage themselves, but ensure your mounting method can withstand the heat if you choose one of these modes.
For example, if used in a room-temperature environment with zero airflow, a SyncLight running the “Always-on, Low” pattern (with or without strobes) will stabilize around 70°C without a heatsink, or 50°C with a heatsink.
A SyncLight on the “Half-on” or “Always-on, Medium” modes will stabilize around 110°C without a heatsink, and 60°C with a heatsink (again, if used in a room-temperature environment with zero airflow)
Adding airflow (such as from the propellers of your drone) will reduce these temperatures radically.
Mounting methods include (but are not limited to):
- Hot glue – If using the “Master”, “Follow”, or “Offset” strobe patterns, the SyncLight will stay cool enough to allow it to be mounted using hot glue without it melting. We cannot guarantee that a SyncLight running any other mode will not melt hot glue if you choose to use it as a mounting method.
- Machine screw – If a more robust mounting method is desired, removal of the heat shrink around the SyncLight will reveal a center hole which accommodates a screw size of #6-32.
- Mushroom Hook Velcro
- Zip Ties – If you’re mounting this to an arm of a drone, a simple zip tie around the center of the SyncLight will suffice.
This product flashes brightly and rapidly, please do not look directly at the light at close ranges. In no event shall our company be liable for any direct, indirect, punitive, incidental, special consequential damages, to property or life, whatsoever arising out of or connected with the use or misuse of our products.